As I posted on my blog yesterday, my brother Noel contacted me and asked me if I would help him build a fully-functional Pip Boy 3000! I’m totally psyched to do this.
Adafruit has a very detailed build here https://learn.adafruit.com/raspberry-pi-pipboy-3000/overview, and that links to the “pypboy” software here: https://github.com/sabas1080/pypboy
Update 2016.05.20: I have found there are two “main” versions of this project floating around the web. The second one being here: https://bitbucket.org/grieve/pypboy/src/92970d3a53f86eba4dc99fc979c5d8682edd2b7e?at=master I call this the “second” because it appears to have more enhancements. (And, more importantly, because I presume Adafruit linked to the original – this may be incorrect!)
Important Note: Be warned that if you use the Adafruit feature to “add all to cart” you will get a different type of knob than the project expects! I got a full-blown rotary encoder, which is a much better option is and just the “rotor-switch” (or “multi-switch) type of knob that the script now expects. (I’m working on this.)
Repository for this project: (Update 2016.05.22) I found that I can easily import the “grieve” repository into GitHub. All I did was import the project and GitHub even preserved the complete history of the project! Apparently GitHub can import from any URL, as long as it contains a Git repository. Good to know! 😎👍
So this project now has a repository located here: https://github.com/lelandg/pypboy
Update 2015.05.29 – I’ve decided to backtrack slightly. I thought that the grieve repository was newer, but I’ve found this is incorrect. The sabas1080 repository actually has the most recent commits. Not only that, there are no less than 15 forks on Github. So I am spending a little time reviewing all of these to get the most complete implementation. I will then fork that project (fork/clone). I hope to make some updates to this, too. The software appears to be well-written, but without all hardware connected, it does not function properly. At this point, I think the only “problems” may be the missing hardware. At least I want to get it connected before I start trying to “fix” anything.
Enough of that, now back to some plans…. 😇
I have seen some builds on other sites as well. However, I have not seen a build like I plan to do! I am quite knowledgeable in Python and becoming so about the Raspberry Pi (RPi).
Since this is our hackerspace and we like to feature actual builds, I will not post details about future plans here, but rather keep this post strictly fact-based. (I always have loved a strong dose of nonfiction along with my sci-fi and fantasy desserts!)
For now, all I’ll say is this is the goal. And you can even click-through to read all about the Pip Boy 3000 on the Fallout Wiki! 😎
So far I have all of the electronics (assuming this touchscreen is big enough!) and the 3D print is scheduled to arrive Thursday, 2016.05.19! So I hope you’ll stay tuned!
Update 2015-05-20: 3D print has arrived! This thing is awesome. Check this out:
Another picture of my Pip-Boy 3000. My brother Leland is currently working on getting the touch screen and working rotary knob all done with a Raspberry Pi — Google it. It’s gonna be so cool! I got the Pip-Boy from jontpeters on Etsy — which was seriously one of the best experiences I’ve ever had buying a prop online. #fallout #vaulttec #vaultboy #fallout4 #lonewanderer #pipboy #pipboy3000 #vaultdweller #geek #cosplay #raspberrypi #geekingout #etsy #3dprinting
2016.05.23: I found the py-gaugette works well almost as-is for a rotary encoder. If you want to use a rotary encoder, I found that it works well. There is another library by Bob Rathbone that is much more compact, but I found that it expected different GPIO connections than my rotary encoder has.
However… (and I apologize if you are subscribed to this post today… I’ll try to limit future updates), we have decided to go back to a rotary switch. This is actually what the script expects. After this part arrives and I get it wired-up, I’ll post some details about it, and of course a schematic when everything is finished.
2016.05.24: The rotary knob arrives today so I hope to get that soldered in place. It would be nice to complete enough of it that I could run my first test today. This may be a little optimistic, but we’ll see.
Meanwhile, I’ve already started the soldering job so I can share a photo of that progress, at least!
Update 2016.06.25: LED Buttons!
I wanted to make the buttons function like they do in the game. However, after calls to both Mouser and Digikey, I found that there is no such thing “illuminated button” of any type that will fit inside the holes in this Pip Boy. (Drilling them larger is not an option because the 3D print contains a “lip” or flange that wraps around each LED.)
So, I had the idea to make my own using only an LED and a button. I would simply superglue the LED on top of the button and wire everything up through perfboard supporting them. Simple, right? Well, it turns out to be much simpler in concept than in practice.
First of all the holes in the perfboard did not line up exactly with the holes in the Pip Boy. to solve that, I sort of tilted toward the outside two LEDs on each end. (It’s not terribly clear in the picture, but the one on the right side is a little more obvious in this picture.)
This doesn’t give me much room on the bottom for soldering! The two leads from the LEDs go down on either side of the switch (obviously) and then come out the perfboard just between the two leads for the button. But I’ve soldered things that were tighter than that before and got them to work, so I’m sure I can do this.
Note that the taller LEDs are required. (Some of them are shorter, and they would not fit up through the hole in the Pip Boy.) also, you don’t really have room for the wire leads to fit up through the holes, so this might not work for some builds.